Men's Second Style

It’s pretty much impossible to discuss men’s formalwear without directing attention to at least one of edo Tone’s impressive tuxedo designs. I look forward each year to edo’s new line—he is prodigiously talented, endlessly creative, and his texture work is second to none. The only problem I have browsing in edo’s store is that, if anything, there are too many choices, and this year is no exception—it’s almost too much to take in. However, after extensive perusal, one new design did stand out.

This season’s Tesan Tuxedo is, in a word, remarkable. Let us not trouble ourselves with the mundane details of what clothing items are included (but do rest assured that you’ll find what you expect). No, let us instead feast our eyes on the lavish, even startling fabric textures, the painstakingly wrought detail work, and the carefully planned assembly of discrete parts into a coherent whole. It is, when all is said and done, attributes like these that turn a simple suit into a rich luxury.

It is almost certain to be the non-traditional yet still decidedly formal fabric of the jacket that first catches your eye. The pattern is subtle, tone on muted tone that feels more so than actually looks floral, evoking rather than literally depicting a swirling sense of roses within roses, interlocking and connected. One can easily imagine such fabric adorning an emperor’s private palace chambers. I have always had a weakness for edo’s satin lapels, shining as they do with almost silken loveliness. And here the lapels are more than accents: they frame and anchor the floral fabric, which might otherwise threaten to overwhelm. It is an impressive act of balance. The jacket’s short tail is flexi, but with an appropriate resistance to any swirling effect, and it greatly enhances the jacket’s lines and overall silhouette. Prim cuffs with buttons give the sleeves a crisp, neat finish.

If it’s true that the jacket shows admirable restraint, it’s equally true that the vest simply abandons all pretense of decorum. And why should it not? A man wearing a lace vest is making a bold, uncompromising statement, and he knows it. And this is a surprising garment indeed, flawlessly executed with proper alpha-channel transparency and clean edges on all the open lacework. Note that this is true not just for the vest worn over the included white shirt, but over any shirt in any color (or over bare skin, if you’re looking for a classy addition to your Chippendales costume). I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen a beautiful, ambitious design not quite succeed due to unfortunate sloppiness with edge clean-up, especially when transparency is involved. The vest here is eye-catching enough when worn with the jacket, but when the jacket is removed it’s almost impossible to look away.

In comparison to the jacket and vest, the shirt and pants seem positively subdued. The shirt is carefully painted with delicate pleats that are clean but pleasantly soft. The sculpted wing collar with integrated bowtie is understated and especially handsome, and subtle shading at the shirt’s collar line allows the prim and garment-layer pieces to blend more naturally. (This is the shirt’s only prim component; sadly, there are no prim cuffs for wear without the jacket. So much for that Chippendales costume.) The dress slacks and their sculpted cuffs are nicely finished, with clean lines, crisp creases and fabric texture that has a gentle, quiet sheen. Rather than distracting one’s attention from the more dramatic virtues of the jacket and vest, these serve as a most worthy complement.

edo Tone’s Tesan Tuxedo is available in a variety of colors and style variations; you will want to be sure to browse thoroughly and consider carefully before making your selection. Undeniably a luxury at L$1000 each. Indulge yourself at Styles of Edo (Tyche 142, 128, 55).

For those of you who may have been wondering if I would ever tire of formalwear…well, probably not, but this is indeed the final post in this particular series. There’s some much more casual stuff coming soon—I promise! So stay tuned.