From a sartorial point of view, I have always been drawn to the prototypically Edwardian. The thick tweeds in nearly organic grays and olives, rich woody wingtips below gray flannel, waistcoats of subtle plaids, cravats made from slabs of silk folded seven times as if as an afterthought. But there cannot be denied the pomp and promenade of the previous generation – the Victorians knew a bit about dressing for one’s station. The streets of Caledon brim with toppers and capes, silver-tipped walking sticks, and uniforms of such daunting variety and dash as to make any martial engagement a riot of color.
Mako Magellan, whose previous work has been lauded amongst his customers and intimates, has come out with a selection of new suits (L$200), each color (blue and gray pinstripes, brown, mustard and gray) available in both single and double breasted. While much of Magellan’s work is archetypically caledonian, his latest offerings straddle the line between the Italianate style of present-day businesswear and the Victorian costume. Demand drove these latest designs, said Magellan: “The impetus was simple – so many people, men and women, asked me for them,” Magellan explained. “They are more contemporary than previous things I’ve done, but I try to make what I get asked for.”
The fine pinstripe in grey is one of Magellan’s favorites. I selected the double-breasted (having fallen on hard times since the late 80s with the rise of Thom Brown, the double-breasted suit is returning to reclaim its rightful place) and was very pleased. It’s quite traditionally angled, with lean lines that flatter with their severity. The peaked lapels evoke a level of formality, yet are tight to the chest and have a modernist rise. “I think of the pinstripe as a good business suit or jazz club wear,” observed Magellan. The pinstriping itself lends to the entire a sense of motion, barely stilled. In all, I concur: solid businesswear for the classical stylist.
The mustard (here in two button, single breasted) is my favorite of the two, however. The design is more subtle and and the fit less severe. The button detail is good, and the shadows at pockets and corners are nicely done. But it is the raw, suffused khaki color that makes this suit a pleasure to wear. The mustard agrees with an array of shirt and tie choices, freeing up great swaths of inventory to select accompaniments from. The sheer volume of amenable options – formal blacks and grays, cherubic red ties, patrician blue shirts and chocolate brown shoes – makes it difficult to find anything that won’t go splendidly alongside this piece.
All abovementioned colors and styles, L$200 at Mako Magellan HQ (Kittiwickshire, 58,119,23).